Scoop Neck Blouse Part 1: Pattern Preparation | Commercially Alternative

Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Scoop Neck Blouse Part 1: Pattern Preparation

I have begun my next project, a scoop neck blouse. There are not many low neckline blouses out in the Lolita world. Most blouses feature the sweet Peter Pan collar or the classic high neck. In addition, Lolita usually has a large focus on modesty and showing skin is sparse. However, I think scoop or square necks are a lovely change. It reminds me more of Lolita’s Rococo influence rather than Victorian. It also provides a little respite for extremely hot weather.

For this project, I thought it would be interesting to take you through the entire process instead of just the result. I used New Look 6599 view A for the body and view D for the sleeves. I chose a black 100% poplin fabric. Luckily, this blouse has plenty of Lolita themes inherent in its design. However, a few fitting alterations were needed.

The first step for my sewing project was to prepare the instructions. I went through and highlighted all of the relevant information, from required pattern pieces to instruction steps. This helps prevent skipping a step in the middle of a project or leaving out a crucial notion. I then read the instructions a couple of times, making sure I understand each step. If I have any questions, I consult my book, “Reader’s Digest New Complete Guide to Sewing”, or I Google. Next, I cut out the entire set of pattern pieces.

Commercial patterns are typically made to fit someone with a B cup bust size and 5’6” tall. I fall into neither of those categories. Thus, I have to alter. I checked out “Fitting Solutions: Pattern-Altering Tips for Garments that Fit” from the library to aid in this endeavor. Since I had so many alterations to make, I transferred the relevant pattern piece to tissue paper. This way I can preserve the original pattern in case I make a mistake.

I altered the bust according to “Fitting Solutions.” The following illustration found here shows what I did since you can’t see it well on the actual pictures. I then did a pin fit and found that the bust point was still too high. Therefore, I lengthened the pattern by ½” above the bust. The book didn't tell me how to locate where to lengthen above the bust on the back pattern piece so I guessed. Finally, I lengthened the pattern by a ½” to lower the waist. Now, I have to cross my fingers and hope for the best. 


  1. This is great! :D It'll be neat to basically watch you make the whole blouse.

    I'm absolutely baffled as to why pattern manufacturers would choose 5'6" as an appropriate average height. D: I had no idea. :| Isn't the average height of an American woman 5'4"?? D:

    I didn't know that a pattern piece could be chopped apart so much to make for such personalized measurements. :D I'll have to look into the sewing book you have, too; I have Sewing for Dummies. There are some pretty unattractive projects in that book. :|

    Are there any other sewing books that you are interested in getting? What would you suggest? :D

  2. Yeah, I think you're right. But I sure am glad the patterns aren't designed for 5'4", because I'm 5'8" and that would have me adjust it even more! XD

    Well, I hope the pattern can be chopped up like this. I've never altered darts before. xD

    I really like my New Complete Guide to Sewing. I wouldn't say it's good for someone who doesn't know what they are doing, but it's a great reference with a lot of pictures. We used this as our textbook for my sewing class. The other ones I use I check out from the library and I haven't found one as good as the one I have.

  3. Oooh, that's an even better reason for me to go get the New Complete Guide to Sewing if you personally haven't found anything better~.

    I'm looking forward to seeing how the darts are going to come out. :O It'll be rather insightful for me because I would have to do pretty much the same amount of altering as you, but in the opposite direction; I'm about 5'. XDDDDDD