Operation JSK: The Plan | Commercially Alternative

Monday, August 22, 2011

Operation JSK: The Plan

All right, I am on the lookout for quality fabric to make another blouse. Hopefully, in that search I can find some good fabric for a JSK as well. In the mean time, I have a few yards of cheap blue cotton fabric that I will use to make my first JSK. Hopefully, it will look nice enough for casual wear and not be a total waste. 
I will be using New Look 6589, view A, without the ribbon. The JSK will be very simple as I'm not sure if the pattern will even work. Obviously, some alteration was needed. I transferred all of the pattern pieces to tissue paper. I didn't want to alter the real pattern and then mess up horribly. 

The first alteration was the most obvious, the skirt. The drawings on the front don't show this well, but the actual skirt part of the dress is trumpet shaped. Thus, the dress comes in a bit below the hips and then flares out more dramatically. To fix this, I made a mark on the fullest part of the hip on one of the pieces. I measured where this was so it would be the same location on all the pattern pieces. I believe this was about 7.5" from the waist for my size. Next, I pinned the pattern pieces to some tissue paper and marked the outline. Then I took a large heavy ruler and made a straight line from the mark at the hip to the point of the hem. This was repeated for all the skirt pieces.
Here is a picture of the original pattern piece laid on top of the new pattern piece.

The next couple of alterations were for fitting purposes. I adjusted the length of the pieces to account for the difference in the shoulder to waist measurements and I increased the bust. It's important to remember that patterns are built for women with A and B cup sizes. If you are above that, pick your pattern based off of your high bust measurement and alter. This will give a better fit in the shoulders and neck. I consulted the book "Fitting Solutions: Pattern-altering tips for garments that fit," with how to alter the bust on a princess seam. The book has excellent descriptions and pretty clear pictures. The alteration was slightly different as the book gave instructions on how to alter a princess seam that included the shoulders instead of straps like this dress. However, I tried my best with what I had. Hopefully, it will all work out. 
I like the idea of the scrunched straps in view A. I think it will add a little something to this oversimplified lolita JSK that's easy to do. However, I feel the straps are far too wide so I believe I will use half the pattern size.
The final alteration is the waist. The pattern calls for a whole 5 inches of ease! This is far too much. However, I'm not going to alter the pattern pieces before I sew. It's pretty much always possible to take something in so I will take in the waist after everything is complete.
Well, what do you think? A good idea or bad? Has anyone tried this pattern before? If anyone has any suggestions, I would love to hear them.

(Note: I will try to add some pictures of the altered pattern pieces by Wednesday)

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